How to Tell If Shoes Are Good Quality: A Podiatrist Guide

Patients often ask me how to tell whether a shoe is actually good quality, usually while holding one they are not sure about. It is a fair question, because a shoe can look well-made but it may fail to tick the boxes in terms of beneficial features. Quality is not about the price tag or the label. It is about how the shoe is constructed and the features it offers (particularly when it comes to support and control), and how those features stand the test of time.

The good news is that you do not need a workshop or a trained eye to judge a good shoe. You just need to be on the look out for a few features and how to test or 'rate' those features. Most of these you can do in the shop before you have even laced up.

This guide walks through what quality really means in a shoe, the tests that screen out the poorly made pairs in seconds, and the extra signs of good construction worth knowing.

What quality actually means in a shoe

In a shoe, quality is how well the actual construction does its job over time, not how it looks on the shelf. A well-made shoe holds its shape, keeps its support, and protects your foot from the first wear to the last. A poorly made one loses those qualities quickly, even if the materials looked premium on day one.¹

Four things tell you whether the build is sound. Each one maps to a job your foot needs the shoe to keep doing.

• Structure. If it is a supportive shoe you are after, then you will want to ensure the shoe only flexes or bends where the foot does (ie. at the ball of the foot). It should not twist, fold or collapse where your foot needs stability. Conversely, flexible shoes are not necessarily bad. It just depends what you are looking for: and if it is a supportive shoe then you want to be sure it actually offers support where the foot needs it most.
• Materials. Here we are more so looking at the upper of the shoe. Animal leathers and natural fibres are inherently more breathable than a lot of cheap synthetics. Some poorly made synthetics and textiles also will not stand the test of time, and commonly they are the ones we see being replaced every couple of months. Having said that, there is now a handful of great durable synthetics out there. A lot of tech has been invested in this space. You will find some shoes with antimicrobial innersoles and lining which can be a great benefit for hot or smelly feet. In an ideal world, you will want to select a material that is both breathable and durable.
• Assembly. A shoe upper is made of a lot of different pieces (typically) sewn together. They are joined to survive real use. A good quality shoe will consider stitching patterns. They should be even across both shoes, and should not sit across a 'flex' point (such as where the shoe bends). When a shoe has not been so well thought out, stitching is often the first thing to fail. A sole unit can be joined to the upper of a shoe in 3 ways. Cemented (glued) is most common. Whilst most shoes are cemented (sole to upper) the sole unit on a cemented shoe will come away much more commonly than a shoe that is stitched or injection moulded. A stitched shoe will be additionally reinforced with a few stitches either around the entire sole unit or around the front (toe) or heel area. An injection moulded sole is a fair bit more complex. You will typically pay more for injection moulded shoes, however they are priced that way for good reason and you just will not see quality issues where a sole comes away from an upper.
• Support that stays. Here you want to consider the midsole (part between the sole and the upper) and the innersole. Both parts offer the 'cushioning' and support. There are lots of brands out there that invest in engineering great quality bouncy, soft midsoles. Often they are trade-marked with fancy names, but these foams are generally built to last, and even under constant load, they will return to their original shape. A cheap foam (either in the midsole or innersole) will compress quickly under load and will not stand the test of time.

If you want the deeper background on the support side, The Comfort Co's explainers on arch support and shoe cushioning cover what to look for in each.

The three quality tests, in about thirty seconds

These three 'easy' checks screen out most poorly made shoes before you even try them on. Each one tests a specific part of the build, and together they tell you whether a shoe is doing the structural work your foot needs.²

1. The twist test

Hold the shoe at both ends and wring it like a wet towel. A well-made supportive shoe resists twisting through the middle. If it wrings out like a dishcloth, the midfoot has no torsional stability, and it cannot control your foot when you push off or land on uneven ground. Keep in mind this test only applies if we are looking at a supportive shoe. A bare-foot or flexible shoe will not pass a torsional test, but may still be a good quality shoe.

Why it shows quality: torsional stability comes from a proper shank or a well-structured midsole built into the shoe. That is a real component that costs money to include. A shoe that twists freely has been built without it, which is one of the first corners cut in a cheaper or lesser quality shoe. A little give at the ball of the foot is fine. A shoe that spirals in your hands is not.

2. The bend test

Press the shoe from either end and watch where the shoe folds. A good shoe bends at the ball of the foot, exactly where your foot bends, and stays firm through the arch. A shoe that folds in half in the middle, or bends anywhere you press it, is telling you the midsole does not offer structural stability.

Why it shows quality: a quality supportive shoe is engineered to match the anatomy of the foot, flexible at the forefoot and structurally stable elsewhere. When a shoe bends in the wrong place, the midsole is either too thin or too soft to hold its shape.

3. The heel counter push

Push the heel counter, the cup at the back of the shoe, firmly with your thumb. It should feel firm and spring back, not crush flat.

Why it shows quality: the heel counter steadies and controls your rearfoot, which generally is where we want to get a lot of the control and alignment. A firm counter means the shoe has a genuine reinforced structure moulded in. A soft heel counter that collapses under light pressure offers little to no support and oftentimes breaks down quickly.

A pair that passes all three is doing the structural work your foot needs. From there it comes down to fit and comfort, which only your own feet can judge, so always walk in them before you decide.

A few more signs of a well-made shoe

Once a shoe has passed the three tests, a closer look at the details separates a good shoe from a great one. None of these takes more than a few seconds to check.

• Even stitching and clean bonding. Quickly run your eye along the seams. Even, tight stitching and clean glue lines with no gaps or excess signal careful assembly. Loose threads, uneven seams and visible glue are the first hint that speed mattered more than durability.
• Quality materials in the upper. Closely inspect the textiles (or leathers / synthetics). There are some great sneakers that are finished with quality laminates in impact areas. These keep the shoe light weight and reduce the amount of stitching and seams.
• A removable footbed. Lift the insole out and inspect it. A removable footbed offers a lot more versatility and generally is a mark of a well considered shoe. Surprisingly there is a lot of tech even in some of today's innersoles. A removable innersole also means that it can be replaced with wear and it leaves room for an orthotic if you need one. The Comfort Co's guide to orthotic-friendly footwear explains why this matters.
• The sole. Consider the tread and grip, as well as the material. A TPR (rubber) sole will be more robust and durable. It will also be grippier than a PU or EVA sole, however the latter two will both be more lightweight.

How to test shoes you already own

The same checks work on the shoes already in your wardrobe, and they are the fastest way to tell whether a favourite pair is past its best. Quality is not only about how a shoe starts, it is about how much of that quality survives the mileage.

Give an older pair the twist, bend and heel-squeeze tests. A shoe that once felt supportive but now wrings out easily, folds through the middle or has a heel counter you can flatten with your thumb, might need to be reconsidered. Look at the sole for uneven wear, check whether the innersole has flattened, and check the upper for cracks or signs of degradation.

As a rough guide, everyday and walking shoes are worth replacing around every 12 months, or sooner if the support feels flat and unresponsive. Rotating between two pairs and airing them out helps them last, and The Comfort Co's guide to making your comfort shoes last longer covers the rest.

Does a higher price mean better quality?

Not on its own. Price can reflect better materials and construction, but it can also reflect branding and great marketing. Plenty of expensive shoes fail the twist and bend tests, and plenty of sensibly priced ones pass with room to spare.³

The reliable measure is the build, not the ticket. A shoe that passes these tests, shows careful assembly and fits your foot properly is generally a quality shoe regardless of price. The trick is to spend on structure and fit rather than on the name, and to buy from a range chosen for how the shoes are made rather than how they photograph. The Comfort Co curates its range around exactly that, supportive footwear built to pass these checks, and its team has pulled together the styles experts rate most highly if you want a shortlist that already clears the bar.

When should I see a podiatrist?

A quality, well-fitted shoe solves a great deal, but not everything. Book an assessment if any of the following sound like you.

• Foot or heel pain that has lasted more than a few weeks, or is worse first thing in the morning.
• Pain that continues even in supportive, good-quality shoes.
• A bunion, hammer toe or other change in foot shape that is getting worse.
• Diabetes, arthritis or reduced sensation in the feet, where footwear needs professional oversight.
• Recurring blisters, calluses or pressure spots that point to a fit or gait issue.

A podiatrist can assess your gait, prescribe an orthotic if you need one, and match you to footwear for your specific foot. A quality shoe is the foundation, and professional care is the tailoring on top.